Armani Debuts 'Evolution' Collection as Luxury House Charts Transition

Giorgio Armani presented a womenswear collection in Milan on Sunday that paired the house's signature tailoring with shimmering fabrics, as the Italian luxury group moves through a period of transition a year after the death of its founder.

The collection, titled "Evolution", was designed by Silvana Armani, the late designer's niece. It featured a palette of ivory, black and gold, with eighties-inspired sharp-shoulder jackets worn with knee-length trousers, bold geometric motifs and body-skimming evening gowns.

In notes accompanying the runway show at Teatro Armani, one of the group's headquarters buildings in Milan, the house described style as a way of being rather than a fixed code — the ability to change while staying true to oneself. It said identity can evolve, and noted that the butterflies appearing on brooches and necklaces stood for metamorphosis.

Speaking to reporters after the show, Silvana Armani said she was committed to continuity with the brand's aesthetic while leaving room for evolution, citing the introduction of cotton as an example of change.

The fashion house is entering a pivotal phase as preparations begin for the sale of an initial 15% stake to outside investors. CEO Giuseppe Marsocci said the group was open to multiple investors in the share sale and that no decision had yet been made.

Earlier this month, the company named Dario Vitale creative director of Emporio Armani and Giorgio Armani accessories — the first time someone from outside the Armani family has held that role.