Chiuri's Second Fendi Show Turns Milan Runway Into a Hall of Mirrors

Maria Grazia Chiuri staged her second collection for Fendi inside a runway enclosed by glass walls, a setting that let guests see their own reflections alongside the models while softening some of the garments' finer detail. A soundtrack of Italian dance classics underscored the creative director's stated aim: to evoke the liberty and energy of a nightclub floor.

"This was meant to be a hall of mirrors, where we actually reflect ourselves in other people's bodies," Chiuri said backstage after the show. She added that for a generation like hers, the nightclub served as a place of freedom, where meeting people, dancing and watching other bodies became a way of connecting.

The collection, her co-ed sophomore outing at the house, opened with undergarments, making bare skin central to the silhouette and drawing on Fendi's heritage of fluidity and layered textures. Silken slips and deeply scooped tanks were set against tailored military jackets, cape-like trenches and patchwork fur coats.

Chiuri's return to Fendi follows earlier roles as an accessories designer at the house, co-creative director at Valentino and creative director at Dior.

Arrivals were slowed by a mix of fans hoping to spot front-row guests including Monica Bellucci and Italian singer Jovanotti, and an anti-fur protest. Fendi began as a furrier and continues to honour that legacy, with an emphasis on upcycled pieces.