Glenn Martens Bows Out of Diesel With Provocative Milan Show

Glenn Martens closed his chapter at Diesel with a runway show in Milan on Tuesday that was as provocative as it was body-positive, marking the end of a tenure that revived the Italian denim label.

Staged under red light during Milan Fashion Week, the presentation took an unexpected turn midway when models seated among the audience began moaning in simulated sexual revelry — alone, in pairs and in threesomes — set to the soundtrack "Love to Love You Baby."

"Every season we try to do something unexpected. This one was a bit more … experimental," Martens said backstage. "I think the whole celebration of being body positive and loving each other is part of the Diesel DNA."

The collection showcased Diesel's trademark textile innovation, with knitwear that seemed to dissolve into denim and leather. Martens used trompe l'oeil techniques to create the illusion of luxurious shearling and leather on flat surfaces. Shorts grew progressively shorter until the final look was reduced to a narrow strip of fabric.

Laser-cut T-shirts appeared deliberately frayed, as if hastily pulled on during a morning-after "walk of shame," an effect heightened by smudged lipstick.

As the finale arrived, the writhing in the seats gave way to headbanging, and Martens received a standing ovation. He joined Diesel in 2020 and will remain at parent company OTB's Maison Margiela, the avant-garde Paris couture house.

At Diesel, Martens said, "we never pretended to be a luxury brand, even though we were on during fashion week. We also wanted to do more alternative things, and think about the community. I think that's what I try to celebrate, but also with respect for the clothes."