Milan's New Creative Directors Loosen House Codes at Fendi, Marni and Jil Sander

Milan's newest creative directors are using their second and third seasons to move beyond brand familiarity and stake out their own creative territory at some of Italy's most storied fashion houses.

At Marni, Meryll Rogge said she wants to honour the brand's heritage without being nostalgic. Speaking backstage after the Spring Summer 2027 co-ed runway preview on Thursday, she described the house's strength as its intergenerational appeal, noting that the first customer for a new bag was a 17-year-old girl and the second an 80-year-old woman.

The collection leaned toward younger dressers with pedal pushers and mini-shifts, while short-haired goat fur coats offered a broader, if pricier, option. Rogge's command of Marni's quirk was visible in men's knit vests styled as halters over button-down shirts, thin long johns peeking from baggy boxers, and a plaid dress with a keyhole detail set off by a shoe buckle. Anorak dresses and tops brought a touch of gorpcore — mountain looks adapted for the city.

At Fendi, Maria Grazia Chiuri presented her highly anticipated second show inside glass walls, a setting she described as a hall of mirrors in which the audience could see themselves reflected on the models. With a soundtrack of Italian dance classics, she said she was trying to recreate the freedom and frenzy of the dance floor, recalling the nightclub as a place of connection for her generation.

Chiuri returned to Fendi, where she began as an accessories designer, after serving as co-creative director at Valentino and creative director at Dior. Her co-ed sophomore collection opened with undergarments, making bare skin central to looks that drew on the house's fluidity and layered textures — silken slips and deeply scooped tanks contrasted with tailored military jackets, cape-like trenches and patchwork fur coats. Arrivals were slowed by fans hoping to glimpse front-row guests including Monica Bellucci and Italian singer Jovanotti, as well as an anti-fur protest. Fendi, founded as a furrier, is retaining that legacy with an emphasis on upcycled pieces.

Simone Bellotti's third collection for Jil Sander softened the minimalist uniform with inventive tailoring. Silhouettes were heavily elongated, with three-quarter-length jackets and argyle knitwear covering the hips, while pleats and built-in capes let air flow around the body. Bellotti said he likes the idea of distorting precision slightly, calling it more honest. A standout pair of coats featured an exaggerated cutaway saddle flap from a royal riding jacket, a shape achieved through hand sewing rather than styling. The palette stayed largely neutral in black, gray and blue to keep attention on the architecture of the looks.