New York Fashion Week Embraces Joyful Dressing for Spring/Summer 2027

New York Fashion Week's Spring/Summer 2027 collections marked a turn away from subdued dressing, with designers replacing the season's usual florals and pastels with bolder, more irreverent ideas. The mood was celebratory, and several houses had reason to mark milestones: Rachel Comey reached 25 years, Michael Kors and Carolina Herrera each observed 45-year anniversaries, and Coach celebrated 85 years.

Coach leaned into the occasion, sending models down the runway in party hats, glittering gowns with large colorful bow trains, and gift-wrapped accessories. At Eckhaus Latta, designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta marked their J.Crew collaboration with confetti, asking guests to open envelopes on their seats when laughter sounded during the second half of the show and toss rainbow confetti onto the runway.

Tory Burch framed joyful dressing as escape, showing color-blocked, embellished looks on a circular indoor catwalk surrounding an outdoor garden with fountains. Burch said she wanted to contrast opulent femininity with utilitarian sportswear, and her collection included embroidered cardigans paired with brightly colored skirts, boa-like thin scarves, and a turquoise coat with a matching bag. "I think when things are a bit more rough in the world you need to dream," she said.

Ralph Lauren opened the week with romance and a celebration of personal style. In his show notes, he described the collection as being about ways of dressing that celebrate ingenuity, originality, and character. Michael Kors staged his show outdoors in the garden at the Museum of Modern Art, where a bright orange trench coat and sunny yellow shoes stood out against black and white looks. Thom Browne drew on "A Bug's Life" for a show featuring a giant indoor garden, green crystals hanging from layered suiting, and jackets resembling cocoons.

Blue ran through many collections. Ralph Lauren worked with a palette ranging from classic denim to satin and lace gowns, suiting, and blue fur and feather collars. Tommy Hilfiger, who often draws on nautical flags, used primary colors including navy on classic and oversized blazers and rugby stripes at The Plaza Hotel. Tory Burch styled turquoise and navy, while Henry Zankov delivered teal for Diane von Furstenberg.

After a decade-long absence, the Diane von Furstenberg line returned to New York Fashion Week, with Zankov unveiling his first collection as artistic director. Known for his namesake knitwear brand, Zankov highlighted animal prints on von Furstenberg's signature wrap designs, along with sheer blouses and dresses and fluid suiting. Cobalt blue, also known as Klein Blue, appeared at Proenza Schouler and Sergio Hudson.

Waistlines drew attention through cummerbunds, scarves, and chunky belts. Daniella Kallmeyer of Kallmeyer added a cummerbund to a buttoned-down blue top over trousers, and another embellished with white beading over an all-black suited look. At Ralph Lauren, fringed scarves were wrapped around models to break up an all-white look or add color at the waist.

Fringe also brought movement to the collections. Asymmetrical dresses swayed with fringe at Jonathan Simkhai, shimmering fringe peeked from an all-black look at Rachel Comey, and jackets dripping with fringe appeared at Monse.