Prada's Kolhapuri-inspired footwear sparks cultural misappropriation debate

Italian luxury label Prada has drawn criticism after unveiling footwear modelled on India's Kolhapuri chappals at its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear show in Milan on June 25. The designs, shown on the runway, have been widely described as an instance of cultural misappropriation, reviving a long-running argument over how traditional Indian crafts are treated by global fashion houses.

The Kolhapuri chappal is among the goods protected under India's Geographical Indication system. A GI is a form of intellectual property that marks a product as originating in a particular country, region or locality, where its distinctive qualities, characteristics or reputation are tied to that place of origin.

India currently has 658 registered GI-tagged goods. The list spans crafts and agricultural produce, including Chanderi sarees from Madhya Pradesh, Madhubani painting from Bihar, Pashmina shawls from Jammu and Kashmir, Kancheepuram silk from Tamil Nadu and Darjeeling tea from West Bengal.

Beyond protection, GIs function as a marketing instrument. They are used to drive rural development, support exports, strengthen consumer confidence and preserve the cultural knowledge held by local communities, farmers and indigenous groups.

The legal character of a GI sets it apart from a trademark. While trademarks are owned by enterprises, a GI is public property that belongs to the producers of the concerned goods. It cannot be assigned, transmitted or licensed.

The Prada episode has focused attention on the limits of that protection, and on whether a GI tag alone is enough to prevent a traditional design from being adapted and sold by a global brand.