Sokoto's nightclubs buzz despite Hisbah patrols and security fears

In Sokoto, a city known as the "seat of the caliphate" for its deep Islamic history, a different kind of scene unfolds after dark. Strobe lights cut through the haze of a nightclub as patrons, some dancing to Afrobeats, others nursing drinks, gather well past midnight. The venue is one of a handful along a single street, operating in a state where strict religious codes are enforced by a morality police known as the Hisbah force.

For Vincent Tabat, a regular at the club, the late-night energy is a point of pride. "This is nearly 2 a.m., and as you can see, everyone is outside to have fun," he said, as music boomed around him. Fellow reveler Benjamin Danjuma echoes that sentiment, describing weekend outings as near-sacred. "We are living our life more than anybody's expectation in this state," he said. "There is so much groove going on. We are not left behind."

The Hisbah force, tasked with upholding public morals across several northern states, often patrols cities and raids venues to enforce Shariah and local laws, including dress codes and alcohol bans. The group was disbanded in Sokoto in 2017 amid complaints of high-handedness, only to be reestablished in 2024. Recently, it announced a statewide ban on DJs at events, certain haircuts, and music on public transport.

Despite these restrictions, partygoers say they are not deterred. Both Tabat and Danjuma, who are non-Muslims, say they are not bound by Hisbah's rules, though they acknowledge past run-ins with the group. The nightclub itself has posted a list of banned items, including veils, and turns away women wearing them—a stark contrast to the rest of the city where such attire is common.

Observers say the nightlife offers an escape from the region's harsh realities, including years of jihadi violence and economic hardship. "The north has been ravaged by insecurity, but people still live there, and people still participate in life there daily," said Oluwamayowa Idowu, founder of a Lagos-based culture publication.

The coexistence of nightlife and religious enforcement highlights the unresolved tensions in Nigeria's federalism. Following the return to democracy in 1999, several northern states adopted Shariah, a move that raised legal questions about the country's secular status—questions that remain open to this day.

Hisbah leaders insist their work is about morality, not religious enforcement. "Every citizen needs to fulfill his or her moral obligation," said Usman Abdullahi Jatau, commander of the Sokoto State Hisbah. Yet critics accuse the force of rights abuses, including public beatings and shaming.

For Ibrahim Nuhu, a banker transferred from the more cosmopolitan Plateau state, Sokoto's evolving nightlife has been a pleasant surprise. Initially worried about leaving a livelier city behind, he now says, "People see Sokoto from outside; I see it from the inside."